Alex Bishop-Thorpe

photographer tinker maker

I solder things to other things now

December 17, 2012 // by Alex

Nikon LiteTouch Zoom 70W, re-purposed with an Arduino Uno and some bits.

A big part of the work I’ve been doing recently is making machines – things that do things, you know. I always liked to make things, but it’s only really been relevant to my practice in the last 6 months or so. The lesson here is that your practice is made up completely of the things that interest you, so shut up and do what you like to do – that’s the point. It all makes sense when you get into it.

Anyway, after helping Aurelia with her Instant Perspective Machine a few months back, I wound up doing a lot of soldering and it turns out I quite dig it. This is the rig for a balloon camera I’m working on and hoping to send up in January. It’s an old Nikon Lite-Touch Zoom 70W hooked up to an Arduino and a couple of relays to control the interesting bits.

I’m looking at plugging in a GPS receiver and a GSM unit to tell me where the blasted thing is once it gets up there. More to come!

And along came a lab.

December 3, 2012 // by Alex

I haven’t been posting much because I fall into big lumps of busy on a regular basis, and when I resurface (now and then) I tend to spend the time doing something relaxing like baking or hiking or driving some place interesting. Basically I’m lazy. I should probably force myself to post a little more so people don’t think I’ve died when they google me.

What’s happened since last time? I run a lab, with Aurelia Carbone, inside Fontanelle in Bowden. Fontanelle is a gallery and studio complex of roughly 25 artists, and we’ve converted part of the old factory site into a darkroom. Apparently they used to make remote controls for TVs here. We can run black and white, colour and ultraviolet processes in anything from 8mm to 4×5″ formats, and bigger if you don’t mind contact printing. It’s taken a lot of work to get it to the stage it’s at, which is the nicest way to put it without swearing, and I wouldn’t want to be told how much I’d spent on it. It represents the culmination of 7 years of buying up laboratory equipment and telling my parents that I really will need it all one day, and storing it away. It’s the thing that I’ve been trying to do for as long as I’ve been a contributing member of society, and it feels good to know it wasn’t a stupid idea that whole time. It’s also a little weird because it makes it clear that all of my stuff is photographic – now I’ve moved things down to the lab I only really have a bed, two bookshelves and some clothes at home…

Today I’m here building pinhole cameras for a workshop I’m running in January (You can read a little more about them here), trying to get the measurements right and prototyping things. Because paint cans wasn’t cool enough, no no, 4×5″ pinhole cameras that take double darkslides all the way.

I go to grab a saw and Andrew Dearman is mucking about with some new lenses, he’s found a teeny tiny one that casts a massive image on the wall. He’s building a cigar box camera, he’s scheming things with a bunch of old film. Science Magic. It’s raining a bit but it’s still warm and a bit stuffy inside. I’m covered in sawdust because most everything is. And I get a big old pang of feeling lucky that I get to call this some sort of a career, and a pang of it actually being worth the hours. You see all I actually ever wanted to do was make things, all of my work is process based and focused on the photograph as a physical thing, and the lab is just the biggest thing I’ve ever made, the one that makes all the other ones make sense. It’s wonky, patched together with expansion foam and so many tubes of gap filler I lost count, but it’s light tight, ventilated, and we can make the world inside.

Re-Collected Catalogue

October 17, 2012 // by Alex

I had a catalogue produced for my Exhibition in August, Re-Collected: A Photographic Survey of Place. Have a look – I still have a few print copies about the place too, get in touch if you’d fancy one. Thanks as always to Jess Mathews who designed the dang thing – it was a hell of a lot of work and I was a picky stupidface, and Lizzy Emery did a wonderful job of the essay.

You should get some ceramics.

January 3, 2012 // by Alex

I really dig ceramic art. It’s a wonderful excuse to buy something handmade thats both artful and functional. You can always say to yourself, “Yeah, but I don’t really need art”, but with ceramics you can always say back to yourself, “Yeah but I totally need a new mug!” and by the time you’ve finished arguing with yourself you’ve already left Urban Cow and you’ve got yourself a new little thing. Ceramics are also generally pretty affordable, and just nice to have in your house.

For example, I’m sitting here this evening with a lovely little ceramic cup on my desk. Usually this is the little cup of water on my bedside table when I go to sleep, and sometimes I just like to pick it up and hold it a little. It’s always cool and fits right there in the palm of my hand. You can tell it was made by a pair of hands to be held by other hands.
I remember being quite young and opening a box of paint tubes, and my older brother told me that the paint was made by machines and put in the tubes by machines, and probably put in the box by machines too. He said my hands were probably the first human hands to touch those tubes of paint. I remember being pretty amazed at the time, but having grown up with that sort of stuff, things made by people and touched by hands have a whole new feeling about them now.
This particular cup was made by Sunshine GB March, and you can read here blog, Ceramirama, here. I met Sunshine when she politely put up with me interrupting her working with Dainica Headland out at the Parks Community Center to ask about their printmaking studio. We all chatted for a while and I really dug her work, I left a few hours later and then kept seeing it all over the place. Most recently she has a lovely piece in the Prospect Self Portrait Prize.
Finally, last month I managed to get some of her work for myself at the Adelaide College of the Arts Art Bazaar, which is the school’s annual market for artists. Two little ceramic cups and a saucer for myself, and a taller glass for the office Kris Kringle.

I’m pretty damn pleased with them, and I really do encourage everyone just to hold something made by hands. Urban Cow, The T’Arts Collective and Pepper Street Arts Centre are good places to start. And keep an eye out for Sunshine’s work.

3 Colour Photogravure, how it looks

November 6, 2011 // by Alex

Okay, so in my last post I talked about the process, but let’s look a bit more up close and see how it comes together.

First, the colour separations:

Yellow Separation, made through Wratten 47 filter

Magenta Separation, made through a Wratten 61 Filter

Cyan Separation, made through a Wratten 25 filter

And, the process:

The Yellow separation is printed first

And then the magenta layer is printed over the top of the yellow layer...

And then the cyan layer is printed, and the image all comes together

And there we go. There’s some clear fogging and plate damage in areas of this image, and the colour balance isn’t quite right, but as a proof of concept I was quite happy.

3 Colour Photogravure

October 12, 2011 // by Alex

Earlier on I posted a few examples of the work I did in the final semester of my bachelors, Colour Photogravure from three plates. Well, these posts really asked more questions that they answered, and given that I may not get to revisit the process for a while I thought I’d post what I can.

First, books!
These are the books I found useful over the course of the project. Some are more useful than others of course, but all of them are worth having on hand. I have a horrible habit of not being satisfied with having a library copy of a book because then I can’t make notes in the margins, which is why I buy them on Abebooks.

Dye Transfer Made Easy, by Mindy Beede
Clearly this is a book on Dye Transfer, but the section on making Colour separations direct from 35mm Colour slides is really well illustrated and explained. The DIY pin registration system they outline could also be of use. A lot of Dye Transfer literature could be applicable to certain parts of this process, so keep that in mind.

The Color Print Book: A Survey of Contemporary Color Photographic Print Making Methods for the Creative Photographer, by Arnold Gassan
Not tremendously useful technically, but very very interesting and handy to lend context to the work you’re doing.

Photogravure: An Archaeological Research, by Jan Pettersson
This is your key text. Pettersson deals with Copperplate Photogravure in his colour photogravure work, but most aspects are easily transferable to photopolymer materials if you’re not set up for copper. As far as I know this is the only contemporary work published on Colour Photogravure. See here for ordering details.

Materials:
Toyobo Printight 73GR (thin) This is your photopolymer plate material. The Toyobo stuff gave me the best tonal range of all of the materials I tried, and it seems to be widely recommended for this purpose. (Available from Melbourne Etching Supplies)

Process Inks
You’ll need a Cyan, a yellow, and a Magenta etching ink. These are sometimes called Process colours as a carryover from the printing industry. Caligo make a wonderful range of water-washup process colours which worked absolutely perfectly for me.
Process Cyan (BL 24911)
Process Magenta (RD 63601)
Process Yellow (YL 91779)

They’re available in Australia from Neil Wallace.

Etching Paper
This is of course vital. I use Magnani because it’s what I learned printmaking with, but nearly any etching paper will be appropriate to begin your experimentation with. Magnani Australia distribute a wonderful range.

Filters:
If you’re making colour separations manually, either in camera or in the darkroom, you’ll need a set of colour separation filters to do the deed. Kodak made these in their Wratten filter line, but everything indicates that they’re no long manufactured. eBay is your best bet.
I used the following filters:
Wratten #25 – Red
Wratten #47 – Blue (Alternatively, 47b)
Wratten #58 – Green

Handy things to have
A Kodak Colour Separation Guide and Greyscale (Product code #Q-13). These are available from Freestyle Photo, and it’s endlessly helpful as a test target.

An Illumitrans Slide Copier, if you can get access to one, is really handy to have for making colour separations directly from slides onto black and white film.

A densitometer is necessary if you plan to get serious about this and get really accurate colours. I never had the chance to use mine appropriately.

Equipment

You’re going to need an etching press, and preferably an etching studio.

I was lucky enough to have access to the South Australian School of Art’s rather lovely print studios.

You’ll need an ultraviolet exposure unit, and preferably a calibrated one. By this I mean, the unit measures the UV output of the bulb and adjusts the exposure time accordingly, so you know # units of exposure always equals # units of exposure. Bulb warm up and cooldown can be a real problem. Again, I was lucky enough to get to use the Photography department’s very nice exposure unit.

You’ll need to know how to print. If you’re coming to this medium without any print experience I recommend you have a printmaking instruct you on the proper methods. Paper handling, inking and printing procedures are really things you need to learn to do properly to avoid harming yourself or your equipment. The instruction of an accomplished printmaker is invaluable, as these are all things that are quite difficult to learn from books alone.

A brisk rundown of the printing process.

First, you make your colour separations. You then output these separations onto a transparent material, either digitally onto a medium like Pictorico, or in the darkroom by enlarging your separation negatives onto Ortho-Litho film. I used Arista Ortho film, which quite annoyingly has now been discontinued.

From these transparencies we make our plates. This involves contact the transparency onto the plate material under pressure, such as from heavy glass or a vacuum frame, and then exposing to UV light. How much UV light is up to a lot of testing, but since everybody’s setup differs it’s useless for me to tell you what my exposures were. “Enough” is about as much as you can say.
You also expose an aquatint screen in contact with your plate in order to give it the grain to hold your ink.
The plates are then developed and hardened as per normal. Photopolymer material is usually simply developed in warm water, which is quite handy.

So, we have our plates! Then we have to ink the plates up. You’re gonna want a big box of disposable gloves for this part. I found cheap plastic palette knives to be really useful for inking up my plates, and I used them more than the specially designed ink wipers I purchased for the job. Figures.

Ink up all 3 plates at once, and don’t dilly-dally, as you don’t want the ink to begin to dry on your plates. How much time this takes depends on the ink you use, but so long as you dont step out for lunch half way through you should be fine.



At the end of this inking process you’ll have your separate plates sitting all nicely lined up and ready to print.

Now, the printing.

Layer one, our yellow plate. Looks pretty boring.

On goes the Magenta! And it looks like…uhh. Orange. Hey, did we do this right?

On goes our Cyan, and it all comes together. It’s like this every time, everything looks pretty rubbish until you get to the Cyan layer and then things just click.

It’s worth mentioning that the printing order always goes Yellow, Magenta and Cyan. I tried printing in different combinations for kicks, and while you do get some interesting results they’re always muddy in comparison. So, keep this in mind.

That’s the basic rundown. I only had 6 months to explore this, so there’s lots more to be done, but I hope this makes you curious enough to explore further. I’ll post more when I can.

A reminder

October 5, 2011 // by Alex

“And remember, nothing you do actually matters.”

These were the closing words of a presentation on the first day of my Skills for Creative Events intensive earlier this year. And, they’re perfectly accurate, in context. In putting on exhibitions and shows, you’re entertaining people – you’re not curing cancer, you’re not performing heart surgery, you’re not designing aeroplanes. If we screw up nobody dies.
We’re just here to show people a good time. So don’t worry.

Of course, if this rubs you up the wrong way, then perhaps you’re not content to just entertain. And don’t start thinking that you’re work is important because it raises awareness or makes people think or blah blah blah. If you’re not happy with being passive then you need to go out and do things.